Lobsters imported from the US, Canada, Australia and other countries are popular in China among foodies. (Photo: GT/Cui Meng)
Prized crustacean is winning Chinese hearts and palates
Matching China's growing middle-class in recent years has been a burgeoning appetite for lobsters in the country.
"Lobsters are delicious, and also nice and red, a color that represents prosperity in the Chinese culture," said Chen Shanshan, a food writer, nutritionist and self-confessed lobster fanatic based in Shanghai and the U.S.. "In the past, people thought of lobster as something fancy, but it's become more affordable, and people are now cooking it in more humble ways, such as for making soup or broths to accompany rice," said Chen.
According to a recent Associated Press (AP) report, in the last six years, exports of live and processed lobsters from the U.S. to China have risen dramatically, from $2.1 million in 2009 to $90.5 million in 2014.
China now accounts for 12 percent of the U.S.' total lobster export volume, as well as importing lobsters from Canada, Australia, South Africa and other countries.
Lobsters from the U.S., according to the AP report, are seen as a more affordable option than those from Australia.
The largest producer of lobster in the U.S. is the state of Maine, with the upcoming summer months the peak season for lobster harvesting and consumption.
While still not cheap, at between $50 and $100 each at restaurants, rising incomes in China have meant that far more people can afford the prized delicacy than before.
"The prices are fine for many people now," said Chen.
" A lot of people I know also buy lobsters to cook at home themselves, [which is cheaper than eating at a restaurant."]
The 'humble' lobster
Guo Wen, the owner of Red Lobster restaurant which opened in Chaoyang district last December, said eating lobster is now a trend in China.
"Chinese people with disposable incomes have tried everything," said Guo. "There's nothing they haven't tasted. But now, they're more concerned about food quality."
Guo attributed the recent popularity of lobsters in China to a number of factors.
"People with money are eating healthy now," he said. "From a nutritional point of view, lobster is high in protein and low in fat."
Guo imports the lobsters he serves at his restaurant from Canada. Imported seafood, said Guo, is seen by customers as being safer and of a better quality, after a string of highly-publicized food scandals involving domestic products in the media in recent years.
One kilogram lobster at his restaurant costs 368 yuan ($59.4). He said that business had been going so well that he planned to open two other branches of the restaurant in Beijing within the year.
"In the previous years, lobsters, especially the bigger Australian lobsters, used to be considered a luxury food item, alongside shark fin and bird's nest," said Guo.
"Now along with the anti-corruption campaign, 'luxurious lobsters' no longer have a market. But due to more diverse channels for importing lobsters, dropping prices and the changing culture of dining, lobsters are coming back as a more down-to-earth food for Chinese."
If one is willing to go to the trouble of cooking at home, a 450-kilogram live lobster can be bought at around 200 yuan on online food outlet womai.com.
Simple dishes using lobster that can be made at home include lobster salad, lobster with spaghetti or rice, and lobster soup, said Chen. She noted that lobster with spaghetti was a favorite of her 3-year-old daughter.
Chen said she had tried cooking lobster dishes in various ways at home.
"Overall, it's a convenient ingredient. Some lobsters on the market are already pre-cooked, and you can just boil the live ones," said Chen.
"For me, a lobster dish basically goes with every kind of wine, except the stronger ones like Cabernet Sauvignon."
