Hundreds of thousands of tourists have been flocking to Milan since the World Expo 2015 opened its doors on May 1st. According to the organizers, a total of 20 millions are expected to visit the venue over the course of six months.
While the whole world is busy with the exhibition and the city's main sites, you may want to take advantage of this world event to discover the hidden treasures of this too often underestimated city.
Milan, Italy's second biggest city and economic capital, may have only figured in your Italian itinerary as an airport or train stopover. With contenders such as Florence, Rome or Venice, Milan's charm is often neglected by tourists.
This year the World Expo 2015 is bringing Milan back on the tourist map and you will find it hard to choose among the city's cultural, culinary and entertainment offers.
Although I am far from suggesting that you should skip the Expo (you should definitely not), or the main attractions such as The Last Supper or the Duomo, be sure to walk off the beaten track and discover the real dolce vita the Milan way.
Urban renaissance
Milan has been the object of an impressive urban and architectural renovation over the past five years. The district of Porta Nuova is the most striking example of this renovation.
When you think of the typical Italian skyline, skyscrapers are certainly not what comes to mind. The Unicredit Tower and the Bosco Verticale building are going to challenge this stereotype. The former is a glass building whose convoluted top mimics the spires of Milan's main cathedral, the Duomo. The Unicredit Tower is the headquarters of its eponymous bank, and it is possible to visit the top floor and admire the view from Italy's tallest skyscraper.
The latter, the "Bosco Verticale" building is, as its Italian name says, a "Vertical Wood" with real trees and bushes on every floor. A unique construction, the building won the International Highrise Award in 2014.
In Porta Nuova you can spend the evening strolling in the new futuristic piazza Gae Aulenti, or walk down to the uber-trendy Corso Como in a blend of good food and better fashion: Be sure to bring your high heels!
A treasure-chest city
One of the most overlooked treasure of Milan is the Pietà Rondanini, a sculpture by the Renaissance master Michelangelo. We often associate the genius of Michelangelo with Rome and the Sixtine Chapel. The Pietà Rondanini is however considerably different from Michelangelo's most famous works, as it is less descriptive and more evocative. The artist produced it when he was in his 80s and worked on it until he died. In May the sculpture was given its own specially-built exhibition space inside the Castello Sforzesco (the Sforza Castle, one of the architectural icons of the city): a must-see.
If you want to dig deeper into the meaning and history of the other Milan masterpiece, the Ultima Cena (The Last Supper) by Leonardo da Vinci, the Palazzo delle Stelline, an exhibition venue opposite S. Maria delle Grazie Church where The Last Supper is on show, hosts an interactive multimedia exhibition about the painting, its history and its restoration.
A hot afternoon (temperatures can go beyond 30 C in summer) would be well spent in one of Milan's many museums. My pick would be the Museo del Novecento, located on the south side of the Duomo square, where visitors can admire Italian and international masterpieces of the 20th century's best avant-garde artists.
Milan is not only one of the world's fashion design capitals. Design in all its forms is practised, taught and enjoyed in Milan. La Triennale Design Museum is the place to go to admire the unknown genius behind your stylish everyday objects. Currently two exhibitions, Arts and Food and Kitchen and Invaders, dissect and analyze the theme of the World Expo 2015: food.
The beauty of Milan is often on the inside. Many palaces, from the austere to the grandiose, hide beautiful gardens and courtyards. Since they are mainly private residences and office blocks now, the best way to visit them is by joining a guided tour (visiteguidatemilano.com).
Woods, water and the city
In Italy Milan has somehow acquired a double-sided reputation. On the one hand it is a fashionable and international city, on the other hand it is the grey and foggy financial headquarter. Milan has however a warm green heart. One example of Milan's green side is Il Bosco in Città (literally The Wood in the City), a lovely peaceful botanic garden with a small lake which would be a perfect stop to rest and enjoy summer if you are traveling with children. Another stunning park is Parco Sempione, which starts at the back of the Castello Sforzesco (in the city center) and stretches up north to the nightlife area of Arco della Pace.
Milan waterways, i Navigli, an artificial network of canals which was partly designed by Leonardo da Vinci himself, have benefited from Milan's urban regeneration. Located south of the city center, they are characterized by a relaxed and young vibe, while at the same time keeping alive the memory of the "Old Milan." Explore not only the Naviglio Grande with its antique and vintage shops and its bars and restaurants, but also the lesser known Naviglio Martesana and the Naviglio Pavese, which are ideal for bike rides that will bring you to the country-like atmosphere in the outskirts of the city.
The world in one plate
The Milan World Expo 2015 opening, the theme "Feeding the Planet: Energy for Life" as well as the money that every participant country has spent on the fair have been controversial to say the least.
What we can be sure about is that the Expo is offering countless chances to taste cuisines from all over the world.
To tell the truth, even in non-Expo years Milan is rich with both local and world cuisines, and visitors can taste all sorts of food, from Eritrean to Chinese to classic Milanese.
For those who are looking for an uncommon culinary experience, Milan is home to Italy's only vegetarian restaurant to have ever been awarded a Michelin star: Joia. The restaurant looks fairly anonymous from the outside but the menu concocted by chef Pietro Leeman, with its unusual cooking techniques and combinations, definitely isn't. Experiencing Milan in style can be expensive though: 200 euros ($218) for a dinner for two at Joia.
Rules of thumb
When to go
Anytime between now and October. For the full Milan experience, Fashion Week is on the last week of September: Book well in advance as the city will be packed with fashionistas.
What to wear
Bring your high heels, or your shirt and jacket for the evenings.
What to buy
Via Montenapoleone and Via della Spiga are the main avenues of the Quadrilatero della Moda, the high fashion district is a delight for the eyes even if you cannot afford any of the items on display.
How to get there
Travelling from Beijing, generally count on one stopover in Europe.
Public transport: Milan has a subway transport system, a tramway system and a network of buses.
