The fresh take at Bites is that these are not set menus but build-your-owns: You pick any three to five items from the menu. (You can have all desserts if you want, the menu winks.)
There will also be separate seasonal specials: Right now there are three platters that capitalize on fresh shellfish. We opt for the mid-price selection, with a half-lobster, two razor clams, two Gillardeau oysters, four prawns, four whelks and a side of dill and caper mayonnaise for 598 yuan. Every day, there's an express lunch option: two courses for 98 yuan.
The frequent turnover of new takes on classic Western dishes means you're never likely to have the same meal twice here. As I look at my scraped-clean plate, that seems almost a pity. And as Bites is just a short walk from some of Beijing's main performance venues, it's a welcome addition to a neighborhood short of good show-night dining options.
If you go
TRB Bites
11:30 am-10:30 pm daily. 95 Donghuamen, Dongcheng district, Beijing. 010-6401-6676.