Only a few minutes after the launch, WeChat Moments started filling up with opinions on the book.
Some were happy that Michelin shares similar tastes with them in recommending chefs, while others voiced frustration or irritation because their favorite restaurants were not included and that some star-rated restaurants did not appeal to their tastes.
The fact that many of the star-rated Chinese restaurants are Cantonese cuisine - including T'ang Court and three out of the four Chinese restaurants with two stars - also stirred anger among fans of Shanghai cuisine.
Shanghailander, who said he had dined at 23 of the 26 star-rated restaurants in the city before the book released, wrote that "based on the results, it seems that Michelin inspectors are not experts in Shanghai cuisine, and that's why the book looks like a guide to Shanghai branches of Michelin-starred restaurants in Hong Kong. Or maybe the inspectors are all high-end diners, thus it also resembles a guide to restaurants in deluxe hotels in Shanghai.
"But compared with some other restaurant ratings in China, I'm pleased with this guide, as those restaurants whose cuisine can barely honor its fame or match with its luxury interior designs are not included," added Shanghailander.
WeChat food blogger Yipianchixin expressed dismay with her dining experience in T'ang Court, while another prominent blogger, Aigechibaole, said she was a fan of T'ang Court's traditionally beautiful food.
Wang Biao, the chef of Yongfoo Elite, a Shanghai cuisine restaurant rated with two stars, commented on the prevailing success of Cantonese cuisine in the guidebook.
He said that Michelin values the fusion of different cuisines and Cantonese cuisine, as the cooking style embraces reforms in culinary culture and is more advanced in catering to international gourmets than other Chinese cuisines.
Further impact
"Yongfoo Elite is also paying more attention in blending different cuisine styles in its dishes, while maintaining traditional food," Wang told the Global Times, noting that it's still a core duty for the restaurant to express the essence of Chinese cuisine.
Wang said he thinks the launch of The Michelin Guide Shanghai will have a great influence on the local culinary scene, as it not only leads the world's diners to Chinese cuisine, but also makes Chinese restaurants more familiar with Western culinary tastes.
"I think the criteria of Michelin in Shanghai is an integration of Chinese and Western tastes, and the criteria will be a good guide for Chinese restaurants to embrace international diners in the future," Wang said.
Winning Michelin stars usually means more business for awarded restaurants. T'ang Court's reservation book has been filled since Wednesday. Yongfoo Elite recommends booking tables a week in advance, and a food and beverage manager with the restaurant told the Global Times that some nights in October are already fully booked.
Meantime, Michelin stars also bring more pressure on restaurants, as the guidebook updates annually.
Each year, restaurants with one or two stars will be inspected at least 15 times, while three-star restaurants face more tests. If their food and service fall behind, Michelin may reduce the number of stars awarded.
The Peninsula hotel has two starred restaurants, Yi Long Court with two stars and Sir Elly's with one. Lukas A. Zehnder, director of food and beverage at the hotel, told the Global Times that their team will strive to maintain their reputation.
"We see this as recognition of our hard work. It tells us that we're in a right way, so we're not planning to change anything but keep on pushing on in the same direction. I think if you want to keep these stars next year, you can only push every day and make sure every day is better than the day before," Zehnder said.
News about the temporary shutdown of Michelin restaurants is not a Shanghai specialty either. In Hong Kong, some small restaurants rated with Michelin stars also had to close or move after receiving high ratings, as landlords raised rent.
But good news for Shanghai diners is that Tai'an Table is set to relocate to a larger space, and it said that licenses, construction and renovations are underway.
