Fermented stinky Mandarin fish－representative of Anhui cuisine with Hunan's spicy flavor. (Photo by Dong Fangyu/China Daily)
We tried this odorous eat, not smelly at all to the palate; instead, it left a lingering, burning aftertaste because it was smoked and then braised with Hunan red chilies.
One way to tell whether the stinky Mandarin fish is good or not is to use chopsticks to push the fish: the meat of well-fermented mandarin fish will shred off the bones in the shape of garlic flakes.
The peerless classic Hunan dish - fish head with chopped chilies - was wonderful, probably the best version I have ever had. Even my companion, who generally shuns fish, was smitten.
It is prepared with the head of a bighead carp cultivated for four years from Dongting Lake, China's second-largest freshwater lake, in northeastern Hunan province. Because of the large size, the meat inside was substantial. The cheeks, eyeballs, and all the flesh around each part took on different textures, creating a combination of chewy and succulent.
The fish head is stewed unfurled under a layer of Hunan-style salted green chili sauce and ginger. It is mildly spicy, not to overpower the savory fish flesh drenched with the broth.
What we tried was half the fish head. There are more choices in the chilies for diners. A popular way is to order a whole fish head under a coat of chopped bi-colored chilies, half green, and half red.
Pineapple rice is usually served as a staple at Yunnan restaurants, and the one we tasted at Xiang'ai was more satisfying and soothing, like a dessert. The glutinous rice is steamed with pineapple flesh and brown sugar for 30 minutes before being placed in a hollowed-out pineapple for another 15 minutes to create the sweet, fruity aroma. It costs 28 yuan.
The icing on the cake of this culinary extravaganza came in the form of what Xiang'ai calls "durian popsicle" (36 yuan). The creamy fresh durian flesh is mixed with milk and crushed nuts, and chilled into a popsicle. Wrapped with crispy rice, the popsicle is placed on a bed of cracker crumbs, decorated with little hami-melon balls and strawberries. It is only mildly sweet, but the strong fragrance and silky texture will surely capture you if you are a durian lover.
Xiang'ai is spread over three floors and can hold up to 200 people at a time. Private dining rooms on the second and third floors are named after species of flowers and birds. The decor gives you the impression that you are entering a fantasy land, with the backs of chairs in the shape of a flame or tree branches, or leaves - depending on your imagination.
There is a patio at ground level where you enjoy a meal or a few drinks in a tranquil and relaxing atmosphere, and which is just a stone's throw from the vibrant Galleria Shopping Center near the eastern 3rd Ring Road.
If you go
In Love (Xiang'ai) 5 Shuguangxili, Chaoyang district (300m to Sanyuanqiao subway)
Lunch: 11:00 am－3:00 pm; dinner: 5:00－10:00 pm
Average cost per person: 200 yuan
010-5866-8358
