"Most of the public is still not aware that human and environmental abuses are endemic across the fashion and textiles industry and that what they're wearing could have been made in an exploitative way," says Carry Somers, the co-founder of Fashion Revolution, who argues that transparency is the first step towards persuading brands to take responsibility for working conditions across the supply chain. Which is why, last week, people are taking those "label selfies", tagging the brands of what they're wearing, and asking #whomademyclothes.
"大多数公众都没有意识到滥用人力和环境资源是时尚业和纺织业的常态,也没有意识到他们穿在身上的衣服是通过剥削工人、滥用资源的方式制作而成."凯瑞•萨摩斯说道.他是"时尚革命"的共同创始人,并且提出透明度是让品牌主动对整个供应链工作环境负责的第一步.这就是为什么上周人们要进行"标签自拍",指出他们衣服的品牌,并询问#谁制作了我的衣裳.
Often the answer will be "poor Bangladeshis". But similar working conditions prevail across the globe, and the big brands seem blithely unconcerned. The international Behind the Barcode report, published last year by the charity Baptist World Aid Australia, found that 86 percent of brands surveyed made no attempt to ensure a living wage across their supply chains, and half didn't even know the locations of the factories in which their garments are made. And while H&M and Inditex (Zara) have taken action to pay wages above the legal minimum at the final stage of production, in the "cut-make-trim" factories, this does not extend to the textile workers, who spin or embroider the fabric, or to the cotton farmers at the very beginning of the supply chain.
大多的答案都是"可怜的孟加拉国".但是全球各地都有着类似糟糕的工作环境,但是大品牌貌似对此毫不关心.去年澳大利亚世界援助浸信会慈善机构出版了"条形码背后"国际性调查报告,报告发现86%参与调查的品牌没有打算确保整个供应链的最低生活工资,一半的品牌甚至不知道制作服装的工厂在哪里.虽然H&M和Zara已经开始采取行动,在生产的最后阶段支付高于法定最低标准的工资,在裁缝制衣工厂里,这些福利不涉及到纺织或刺绣工人,也不包括在供应链最前端的种植棉花的农民.
The latter certainly deserve better treatment. In the past 15 years, there have been 250,000 cotton-farmer suicides in India (equivalent to one every 30 minutes) because they simply can't make ends meet. But, says Somers: "Tragedies are preventable. All we need is to make every stakeholder in the fashion supply chain responsible and accountable for their action and impacts. We have incredible power as consumers, if we choose how to use it."
后者当然应该受到更好的对待.过去的15年里,印度有25万名种植棉花的农民自杀（相当于每30分钟一个人自杀）因为他们根本就无法养家糊口.但是萨摩斯说："悲剧是可以阻止的.我们所需要做的是让每一个时尚业供应链中的利益相关者对他们的行为和影响负责.如果找到使用权力的方法,我们作为消费者也能具有惊人的力量."
The 63-million reach of last year's #whomademyclothes hashtags is just a first step.
去年#谁制作了我的衣裳的标签运动有6300万人参与,这只是开始.
英文来源：独立报
