While fish stocks last!

Chasing down freshwater delicacies in season has long been a way of life in the Yangtze River Delta region. And during spring the most sought-after fish is daoyu, (literally "knife fish") so named because of its sleek and slender appearance. But perhaps its most remarkable property is its price, which can approach 3,000 yuan ($475) for one specimen. Its scarcity, and some would say its impending extinction, have guaranteed that this is a treat that only the very wealthy can now enjoy.

Gone fishin'

Spring is the spawning season for daoyu, and is also the best time to enjoy it. As the old saying implies, it is better to enjoy daoyu before the Qingming Festival arrives (tomb-sweeping day, usually on April 4 or 5). The fish usually arrive in the Yangtze River from the East China Sea in late February for spawning so that creates only a window of one month for enjoying this treat. "Before the Qingming festival, the species is getting fatter for spawning. After the festival, however, daoyu have finished their spawning. The fish bone gets tougher and the taste and texture of the meat isn't as pleasing," said Huang Xiaoyuan, executive chef of Noble House Restaurant in Shanghai. Huang said that daoyu served in the restaurant costs roughly 1,200 yuan each.

The overfishing of daoyu during their spawning period is only one reason for the rarity of the species. "The increase in pollution in the Yangtze River waters from heavy industry has also led to its decline," said Liang Weiquan, director of fisheries for the Shanghai Municipal Agricultural Commission.

In barley a few decades the numbers of daoyu have drastically declined from an output of some 3,750 tons in 1973 to just 370 tons in 1983, and less than 100 tons in 2002, according to the most recent figures available from the Chinese Academy of Fishery Sciences. To protect the species, local authorities grant a restricted number of fishing licenses every year in order to combat overfishing. Last year, only 135 licenses were granted, and those who trawl daoyu without a license can expect to face heavy penalties. This policy also helps in curbing the ever-spiraling price of daoyu.

Ancient tradition

As an important part of Huaiyang cuisine (originating in northern Jiangsu Province) during spring, the tradition of eating daoyu can be traced back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279), according to Huang. Li Yu, the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) playwright, once said that although his stomach was already full, he couldn't put down his chopsticks when eating daoyu. Another Qing Dynasty poet and gourmet Yuan Mei also listed daoyu in a well-known recipe, in which he advised steaming the fish in sweet rice wine.

"Steaming the fish is the most traditional way of eating daoyu," said Huang. "You just add a little oil, and then steam the fish for 10 minutes and it is ready to serve. You don't add any other ingredients because the essence of the dish is to taste its original flavor."

For those gourmets who would like to try their hand at buying and cooking their own fresh daoyu, Huang has some good pointers. "The scales should be intact and sleek. The fin of the fish should be long enough to reach the belly. This is what distinguishes daoyu caught in the Yangtze as opposed to being caught from the sea. From the river it will command a much higher price."

According to Huang, you will know you are eating the best daoyu if you see an oily coating form around your chopsticks if left for a while.

Daoyu has many small and soft bones. But for real daoyu lovers, these small bones do not affect either the texture or the taste, but actually add to the pleasure of eating this fish. But for those who aren't so keen on bones, Huaiyang cooks have concocted other ways of eating daoyu. They remove the major fishbone, and mince the fish meat so that it can become a gum-like ingredient that can be used in a variety of dishes. Huang said that Noble House is one of only a few restaurants that know how to do this well. "This skill has almost been lost," he said. At Noble House, one variation is to cook daoyu with bamboo shoots. "March is also the best time to enjoy bamboo shoots, and this dish mixes these two delicious flavors."

Daoyu on the cheap

Sadly, dining out on daoyu today is a luxury few of us can indulge. But there are still ways in which people with slim wallets can enjoy it. Wontons made with daoyu stuffing is an affordable way to savor the flavor of the fish.

Rumor has it that daoyu wontons were first created by fishermen living on the Yangtze River when they were unable to afford pork. So because of this they replaced pork with minced daoyu as wonton fillings. However, time has inverted this situation, and today daoyu meat is far more expensive than pork.

In Jiangyin, Jiangsu Province - known as one of the most traditional centers of this cuisine - daoyu wontons cost a princely 3 yuan per wonton, and the fillings are usually mixed with pork, eggs and vegetables.

In Shanghai, people who want to enjoy the true flavor of daoyu can visit Lao Ban Zhai (600 Fuzhou Road, 6322-2809), a century-old Huaiyang cuisine restaurant. Daoyu noodles are the restaurant's signature dish, and are only available for about 15 days before the Qingming Festival. However, no daoyu meat can be found in the noodles, due to it being cooked for so long that it completely dissipates, leaving only a daoyu-flavored soup. A bowl of daoyu noodles here costs 30 yuan.