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Zhongnan hermitages provide respite for the world-weary

2012-03-15 12:51 Ecns.cn     Web Editor: Wang Fan comment

(Ecns.cn) – Isolated Buddhist and Taoist hermitages in the valleys of China's Zhongnan Mountain have been mysterious to the public for centuries, but recent reports unveiling the lives of the various "hermits" who now reside there have stoked an even greater curiosity nationwide.

Amongst white clouds, there are hundreds of recluses living in scattered retreats along the Zhongnan Mountain range. Traditionally, living in solitude was an approach to deep contemplation and a spiritual practice that led to inner peace.

Times change, however, and many of these recluses are no longer as isolated and focused as before, so much so that many doubt if there are any true hermits still living on Zhongnan Mountain.

Reclusive diversity

Zhongnan Mountain has been a popular destination mainly for Taoist hermits for many centuries. The philosophy of such hermits lies in the refusal to make the compromises necessary to stay in an unsatisfying group such as an imperial court, especially for men of letters.

Historically, most Zhongnan hermits were former top officials, including Laozi, an ancient Chinese philosopher and the godfather of Taoism; Jiang Ziya, founding father of the Western Zhou Dynasty (1046 BC-771 BC); and Wang Wei, renowned poet of the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

But in the modern world of today, the new recluses of Zhongnan Mountain form a much more disparate and less spiritually-focused group.

Besides Taoist practitioners, monks and nuns, there are also students who have dropped out of university, restless white-collar workers, clever entrepreneurs and gaunt visitors seeking health, noted Guangzhou Daily.

Wang Xuefeng, 23, was a college student before he began seeking solitude at Zhongnan Mountain two years ago. Wang said he grew weary of studying and had no interest in mingling with others, so he dropped out of school and headed for the mountains in 2010.

Without a mobile phone, television or the Internet, Wang felt awkward at first. But after only a few days he started enjoying a different kind of life – sleeping in as late as he wanted, reading books and climbing mountains to cut firewood. His only concern was that his speech had slowed due to a lack of communication with other people.

Mr. Fang, 56, previously a deputy general manager at a real estate development company, settled on Zhongnan Mountain more than a year ago. Fang said his health had deteriorated at work, so he decided to quit the job and relax, even though he made over 1 million yuan (US$157,700) a year.

Last January, with the help of some of the indigenous people, he set up two small huts in the valley. However, Fang's wife and daughter are unwilling to live the way he does, so he must struggle to overcome the loneliness deep in the mountain area.

Weekend hermits

In 1989, Bill Porter, an American sinologist and translator of Buddhist texts, came to China in search of the legendary hermits of Zhongnan Mountain. He later wrote a book on the subject entitled "Road to Heaven: Encounters with Chinese Hermits," which was an eye-opener for people living in Xi'an, the capital of Shaanxi Province.

More than 20 years later, an increasing number of people are going to Zhongnan to find a tranquil life. But a Buddhist master there commented that the name "hermit" is now only a tag for the recluses, since the old tradition has almost been wiped out, reported Guangzhou Daily.

According to the master, a real hermit must be isolated from society and lead a totally elusive life, but the modern recluses are closely connected with the hustle and bustle, even though they live in solitude most of the time.

Some of them are even part-time recluses, who work on weekdays and enter the mountains on weekends, according to a Shaanxi-based newspaper.

Moreover, many of the so-called hermits do not consider themselves hermits at all: they say they are only seeking a spiritual life and a way to escape the outside world.

Real hermits do not like to be disturbed and will close the doors when they see people approach, but there are codes that may win you access. It was reported that one should recite Amitabha when encountering a Buddhist, but say Amitayus when knocking at the door of a Taoist.

Though today the recluses are much kinder to outsiders and will teach people how to reduce stress, many of them still sit Zen, recite sutras and engage in Tantric meditation and rituals.

Business opportunity

It is very difficult to count the number of hermits at Zhongnan Mountain, as they live in scattered huts anywhere possible, but the figure must have been increasing in recent years, according to the master.

Living in solitude is in fact not a way to escape from the world, but finding inner peace is more important, he stressed.

Whether they are real hermits or not, they have exerted some influence that cannot be ignored. The positive side is that some of these recluses help more people learn about China's traditional culture. But to the Taoist and Buddhist practitioners, the newcomers are a disturbance to their simple and quiet lives who are also causing damage to nature, said Guangzhou Daily.

Alongside this trend, some indigenous people have sensed business opportunities by earning extra money to help with hut building. And as more people choose to visit Zhongnan Mountain to get a taste of the life there, the locals can also provide accommodation.

With the secret resort exposed, business now seems inevitable. No one is able to foresee the future of Zhongnan Mountain, and all we can do is hope that its idyllic charms will not be spoiled by commercial interests.

 

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