Memories from a hutong resonate on Zhangzizhong Lu

Tie Shizi Hutong (Iron Lion Lane) was one of the oldest lanes in Beijing, having come into existence in the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368). Today it forms part of Zhangzizhong Lu in Dongcheng district, a six-lane road that acquired its name in 1946 by the authorities to commemorate General Zhang Zizhong (1891-1940), who was killed during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression (1937-45). Despite the iron lion being nowhere to be found, and the sprawling space bearing no resemblance to a hutong, some remains on the north side of the road act as a window into its past.

Building No.3 is the most outstanding of all. As one of the most spacious courtyards in the region, it used to be the presidential palace for Yuan Shikai (1859-1916), one of the first presidents of the Republic of China (1912-49). Later, in the 1920s, powerful warlord and politician Duan Qirui (1865-1936) also settled here and used the space for political purposes. It was at this address and under Duan's command that a massacre occurred, known as 318 to correspond to it taking place on March 18, 1926. Demonstrators outside the residence, who were against the treaties between China and foreigner powers, were fired on by troops. Forty-seven people died and a further 150 were wounded. Amongst them was female college student Liu Hezhen, a former student of esteemed Chinese writer Lu Xun (1881-1936), who lost her life on the spot. Lu later wrote an article commemorating the girl and calling the massacre an indication of the darkest age of the Republic of China. A stone stele on the street remains to commemorate this event.

Walking out of No.3, building No.7 to the west is also a remarkable historical spot, spanning 1,000 square meters. It was the old mansion of Princess Hejing (1731-92), who was the third daughter of Emperor Qianlong (1711-99). The residence was part of the dowry that the emperor gave to her on her wedding. It is a four courtyard building, with a scale of grandeur that was the privilege of royal families only.

In the early period of the Republic of China, it was occupied by the army for a while. Out of the many buildings that lined the lane, No.7 has been lucky to remain only partially demolished. The mansion has now been renovated and is occupied by several companies today.

There are a few other indications that this was once an old lane. For example, a traditional gate with two stone lions remains at one section. For the most part though, its interesting past could be easily forgotten in the midst of all the modern hustle and bustle.