Documentary finds soul of China in food

(Ecns.cn)--Since May 14, a China Central Television (CCTV) documentary called "A Bite of China" has opened a window for audiences at home and abroad to learn about China's food and culture through delicacies made by ordinary people in remote corners of the country.

The series stirred heated debate among web users soon after its debut, and has been watched over 20 million times as of early June, according to a report by the Confucius Institute Online.

It may sound like any other food program, but "A Bite of China" moves beyond mere culinary introductions. The production team also uncovers the origins of the dishes, how they are made and where the ingredients come from, explained China Radio International (CRI).

By showcasing the entire food-making process, the documentary presents a holistic symbiotic relationship between the natural environment and humans, elaborating on the cultural and societal changes that make Chinese dishes the way they are today, added CRI.

"The food reminds me of my hometown, my mom's cooking and my childhood," Wang Xin, 28, one of the hundreds of thousands of viewers moved by the program, told Xinhua News Agency.

"It made me homesick. I could not help but shed tears," said Wang, who is originally from Shaanxi Province.

"No matter how far you go or who you become, your stomach will still belong to your hometown. This is an important reason why the film could be attractive to so many people," Chen Xiaoqing, director of the documentary and a famous food writer, was quoted by Xinhua.

"We want to show people the real China via a program that focuses on dishes, but goes beyond that," Chen added.

As a nation of food lovers, audiences were initially drawn to the series for the attractive cuisine, but were later impressed by the human element. The episodes weave together stories of ordinary people, each addressing a specific food-related topic such as ingredients, staple foods, storage, cooking and ecology. They also reveal how food affects people's lives as well as Chinese culture, analyzed the Confucius Institute Online.

In an episode called "Taste of Time," a Hong Kong grandmother who makes a living by making shrimp sauce told the director that she chose to keep the business after her husband died, because the sauce had become a "spiritual sustenance" for her.

"In today's China, every city looks the same, but they differ greatly in dietary history. Food serves as a unique city label," said Chen Xiaoqing.

"Chinese are quite food-conscious. They don't eat to live, but instead pay great attention to time, location and companions for meals. For them, delicious food is always closely connected to culture," Wang Dong, a history professor at East China University (ECU), told China Newsweek.

Yu Dan, a culture studies scholar, told CCTV that "for Chinese people, food is more than just satisfying hunger. It has a manner of its own and rules of living. Courtesy and customs are carried out by the ceremonial sense toward food. It reflects the humble love of Chinese people for food. It is gratitude and respect."

The program also promotes healthy diets--especially at time when a series of food safety incidents has damaged the country's reputation for fine cuisine--with "many ingredients are directly from nature," added Tian Zhaoyuan, director of the Institute of Anthropology and Ethnology at ECU.

"Now, dining out is haunted by questions: Is this meat safe? Does this meal contain additives? Do they use illegal cooking oil?" said Chen Jiayu, a food quality inspector in Wuhan told the 21st Century, an English-language newspaper. "In my job, I have been shocked to see where some food has come from."

Yu Dan added that "in a time when food safety is becoming a hot topic, 'A Bite of China' offers a sense of modest trust and relief, that when there have been no chemical additives and modern procedures we Chinese people can also eat very well. It shows confidence in the Chinese way of living."

In addition, the documentary has also helped stimulate China's economy to some degree, by triggering an online shopping craze for food.

Taobao figures show a 71 percent increase in sales of steam pots and a 33.4 percent rise in stone/ceramic pots, as people have showed a greater interest in traditional slow-cooking methods, like steaming and stewing—a highlight of the TV series, reported the China Daily.

There have also been 18 times more searches for ham on Taobao, and ham sales have increased by 80 percent. The previously little-known Nuodeng ham quickly became a hot keyword.

In response, Taobao launched a promotion called "A Bite of Taobao." On the first day, the package raked in 21.95 million yuan ($3.47 million) in sales.

As a result, other companies like Sina and Baidu are also following the trend and launching related promotions.