The qipao has grown in popularity worldwide over the past century, becoming renowned as China's iconic dress. [Photo: Zhang Zihan/GT]
Exquisite, charming and quintessentially Chinese sums up many people's first impressions of the cheongsam, better known in China as the qipao. Owning the body-hugging one-piece dress is a fashionable rite of passage for many Chinese women since it was made stylish by Shanghai socialites during the 1920s and 30s. To celebrate some of the most memorable designs and styles of the dress, an exhibition titled "A Century of the Qipao" has opened at the Chinese Museum of Women and Children in Beijing.
The exhibition, jointly curated by the host museum and the Chinese Silk Museum, features more than 120 qipao dresses reflecting different periods and a myriad of varying designs.
Though it's unknown who actually designed the first modern qipao, it's generally believed to have emerged during the 1920s in Shanghai. During that period, Shanghai was home to several foreign concessions. Influenced by Western fashion of the time, Chinese tailors crafted the qipao as a creative amalgamation of ancient Chinese robes, traditional Manchu dress and formal, figure-hugging Western gowns. The ongoing exhibition showcases some qipao dresses from the 1920s, as well as modern variants for visitors to compare.
The qipao was the most popular garment in female fashion in China during the first half of 20th century. Materials such as cotton and satin were used in lieu of silk, making it more widely available to women of all classes, rather than just the elite.
It quickly evolved to be characterized in the West as the iconic "Chinese dress," spurred in popularity by American writer and long time China resident Pearl S. Buck's love affair with the qipao. The celebrated author of 1931 Pulitzer Prize-winning novel The Good Earth was even dressed in her favorite qipao for her funeral.
Today, the qipao is still revered by women from all over the world for its distinctive Chinese characteristics. As it did during its humble beginnings, the dress continues to embrace an array of influences from home and abroad into its style.
Modern qipao dresses on show at the exhibition reflect designs in thin georgette, luxurious velour, shiny printed fabrics and even lace.
Zhao Feng, director of the China Silk Museum, pointed out that few other garments have had such success in popularizing Chinese fashion worldwide.
"Chinese qipao designers seek not only to balance Chinese and Western designs, but also balance tradition and modernity. This makes the qipao one of the most important garments of Chinese clothing," Zhao said.
Lu Hongxing, a 26-year-old student at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, praised the exhibition for providing a window into traditional Chinese culture.
"Although it is still debatable over whether the qipao should be regarded as China's national clothing, the exhibition really offers people in this modern age a good opportunity to reflect on tradition," said Lu. "It's also helped me a lot in understanding Chinese tastes in fashion."
When: Until March 27
Where: Chinese Museum of Women and Children, 23 Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng district
Entry: Free (ID required to register)
Contact: 6526-9678
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