Fashioning life

The last few weeks have been filled with big events centering on fashion magazines. The Best of the Best 2012, the so-called "Oscar awards of the luxury field," held annually by luxury magazine the Robb Report since 1987, had its awards ceremony in Shanghai on October 17. Nine days later, 2012 the Elle Style Awards hit Shanghai at the close of Shanghai Fashion Week. The Fashion in Vogue exhibition celebrating the 120th anniversary of Vogue magazine was launched in Beijing on October 30 and will last until November 18. In the flurry of events, fashionistas in China have once again been reminded of the dominant role these magazines play in their lives.

Trend textbooks

It is difficult to overstate the crucial role of fashion magazines as style guides for the trend-conscious.

"It is not an exaggeration to say that fashion magazines deserve much of the credit for their contribution to the progress of fashion in China," Mao Mao, an editor for a fashion magazine in Hongkou, Shanghai, told the Global Times.

"Fashion magazines offer the public a professional guide (on fashion)," said Huang Doudou, editor of Cosmopolitan magazine in China. Trendsetting editors give readers advance notice of what's hot and what's not, and, more importantly, they instruct the public on how to mix and match recommended styles for various occasions appropriately.

Since their introduction to China nearly 20 years ago, fashion magazines have shown Chinese how to think in terms of style. Over time, they have moved from merely introducing the concept of dressing to impress, to imparting the ability to create a personalized look.

These glossy pages teach readers now to match clothes and how to properly apply makeup for the different roles we play in life, whether it be the go-getter professional at work, the sultry party girl at night, or the casual beach trotter during a vacation.

Through these publications, Chinese trendsetters learn about the season's hottest looks, fabrics, colors, and even makeup techniques. For example, the trendiest eye shadow color is currently marine blue, following a trend set forth by make-up stylist Pat McGrath who designed blue eyelashes for Stella McCartney's autumn-winter show. Nude lip gloss can be paired with this bold look to emphasize its use of color.

More than anything else, these magazines have brought China up to speed with the rest of the modern world in terms of trends and savvy shoppers.

"I think (fashion magazines) can lead people to purchase more actively," said Chen Xi, a fashion magazine editor with Xi'an Hengsha Jinli Advertising Culture Media, LLC. "That is to say, they teach people not to follow international fashion trends blindly, but rather to make their own shopping decisions selectively so as to choose things that really suit them," Chen told the Global Times.

Foreign magazines like Vogue, Elle, Bazaar and Cosmopolitan have launched Chinese versions. Most of these publications focus on Asian women, and give advice according to the characteristics of Asian people's skin types, body shapes, physique, living habits and preferences.

Broadening influence

Over the years, the scope of fashion magazines has expanded beyond elements of clothing, hair and makeup. Many such periodicals now have sections on physical and mental health, recreation, interpersonal relationships, and even home furnishings. Readers are advised on relieving stress with a trip to the spa, using specific essential oils, soaking in a luxury Jado bathtub, and listening to music recommended by a music therapist. The coverage of these magazines has evolved alongside the tastes of the Chinese consumer.

"In the past two decades, fashion magazines in China have made people come to value the good things in life more and more," said Zhang Kun, chief strategist of Rayli magazine. "They help those who are totally wrapped up in making a living to enjoy the finer things in life."

Unwanted side effects

While experts like Zhang may contend that fashion magazines have elevated the quality of life for thousands of readers, there are some that caution these publications against giving into temptation and embracing less savory topics.

"A good fashion magazine teaches you a healthy and fashionable attitude toward life and helps you feel more confident and satisfied with who you are," said Yang Yang, fashion magazine editor and chief director assistant of the China Fashion Festival. "Some magazines have vulgar contents, such as how to land a one-night stand or how a mistress can replace a married man's wife. Such topics may be more appealing, but they taint the magazine's reputation."

In addition, many experts contend that fashion magazines can have an adverse effect on readers' mental health. In a country where status is so prized, Chinese are particularly susceptible to feelings of inadequacy when viewing photos of beautiful, well-heeled models whiling away the hours at a cafe or on a beach, showing off the latest looks.

According to Peng Guangmang, professor of advertising and broadcasting at Huazhong Argricultural University, such images pose a threat to readers' well-being. "This will result in readers feeling unsatisfied with their lives, doubting their own abilities. This is far from the aim of pursuing mental and physical health promoted by the fashion magazines," Peng wrote in a paper on the effect of fashion magazines on readers' self-esteem.