Hidden Treasure

This week's destination

Is Xiamen the most beautiful coastal city in China? The debate has continued online for years. The most obvious attraction is its natural beauty - green hills, rocky granite crags, tropical gardens, and the appealing view of the beach.

Facing Taiwan, Xiamen has a strategic coastal location between Hong Kong and Shanghai. However, its economy has not grown as rapidly as these other metropolitan areas. Perhaps this will give it the chance to become the Chinese city known for its romantic, relaxing atmosphere.

I found the most famous scenic spot, Gulangyu, far too touristy, and South Putuo Temple is not much different from many temples in other parts of China. Instead, I was amazed by the Xiamen Botanical Garden, and equally impressed by the Overseas Chinese Museum.

Botanical gardens

Xiamen Botanical Garden is probably the only rich botanical garden built within a Chinese city. Xiamen residents are very lucky, as they don't have to travel far from the city center to get to this beautiful natural green space. Xiamen Botanical Garden is a well-designed "green museum" housing more than 6,000 species of plants from China and Southeast Asia, including palms, bamboo, orchids, bonsai and medicinal plants. Wanshi Lake, which was a combat readiness reservoir before the 1950s, is now the major water resource for the garden.

Located in the Zhongshan CBD area, Xiamen Botanical Garden is surprisingly quiet and peaceful.  Walking along a pebble-strewn road, visitors look up at giant green trees and rocks, hear birds singing lulling melodies in the branches, and smell the roses bordering the walkway. Occasionally, one's path may be interrupted by local cats with their distinctive, tiny tails or a silently staring squirrel who runs away as soon as someone glances in its direction.

The garden is divided into more than 10 specific zones, including the Bamboo Zone, Palm Zone, Liana and Colorful Bush Zone and Medicinal Plants Zone. It also boasts beautiful buildings, such as traditional-style pavilions, arched bridges and steles.

This botanical garden is not like others that can be found in many cities, as it has also been the site of important historical events. One must-see spot in the garden is a bullet-scarred rock where the legendary Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) general Zheng Chenggong killed his cousin. Deng Xiaoping, China's reform and opening-up policymaker, planted a camphor tree, and former US president Richard Nixon planted a large redwood tree, both of which can still be seen growing in the garden.

Whilst enjoying the peace and beauty of the garden, you will also acquire knowledge of both rare and precious plant species - for instance that the leaves of a giant water lily can bear the weight of a child. Helpful explanations of the medicinal plants also tell you which ailments each plant can cure.

The ticket for the garden is accompanied by a hand-drawn map printed on yellow-colored paper. With vivid pencil sketches of the plants and pavilions, the map shows you the various paths to reach each area and other scenic spots in the space of 4.93 square kilometers. The map serves to entice visitors into a treasure hunt through this natural trail.

If you don't mind getting wet, go to the Equatorial Rain Forest garden. Due to the reaction between the tropical plants and river evaporation, it is very humid and misty, and you can see various types of lianas and epiphytes. These plants grow and climb onto other plants, or grow with their branches twisted together, making the area even more magical and mysterious and creating an environment similar to the natural rainforests of Malaysia.

Following the beautiful landscaped trail, you will pass three Buddhist temples, Wanshilian Temple, Heaven's Border Temple and Eternal Peace Rock Temple. Next to a 4-meter-high wooden waterwheel is an open-air tea house where you can sit on a log bench next to the river to take a break before heading uphill to enjoy the  breathtaking views.

In front of the teahouse sits an amazing piece of natural art in the form of a 2-meter root carving. The artist carved more than 20 vivid faces of Arhats, Buddhists that have achieved nirvana, on this single root. Each Arhat has a different facial expression sculpted with an unbelievable level of detail. Whether they smile or look angry and fierce was decided by the shape of the wood.

Don't miss the Desert Garden on the top of the hill. It has more than 1,200 kinds of cactus from the Americas and South Africa, some of which are preserved in a white greenhouse. 

Overseas Chinese Museum

A poem entitled "The Green Leaf's Attachment to the Root" by Wang Jian is placed noticeably at the entrance: "Do not ask me where to go, my heart is attached to you. Do not ask me where to go, my passions go with you. I am one of your green leaves, my root is deep in your soil."

In 1959, influential overseas Chinese man Tan Kah Kee, feeling an attachment to his homeland as deep as the leaf to its root, established the Xiamen Overseas Chinese Museum, the "only museum about the history of Chinese emigration in the world."

Built in white granite and covered by green glazed tile, this five-story museum is designed with prominent Hakka (a Chinese ethnic minority) features. It has three exhibition halls, displaying items mostly collected by the founder, and houses more than 7,000 cultural relics such as old pictures, pottery, bronze wares, sculptures and paintings.

In the 19th century, when colonialism began to take hold in China, Fujian and Guangdong provinces were the main source of workers who moved overseas. A great number of laborers went to North America and Australasia to do the dangerous work of gold mining and railway construction. Xiamen was one of the main ports for Chinese exiting the country, many never to return.

The geographical maps with timelines and statistics paint a vivid picture of the routes of the Chinese emigration back to the old times. The black and white photos reveal the terrible working conditions of overseas Chinese, their tragic stories as well as their endeavors for liberation and achievements in their host countries. Some exceptional overseas Chinese leaders are also featured along with their biographical details.

Moreover, the exhibition explains the changes to their lifestyle, the past and present overseas Chinese community, and the cultural differences and connections between Chinese in China and overseas Chinese throughout the world.

Xiamen is not an exciting travel destination, but it is a peaceful and enjoyable harbor to while away a weekend. To me, the beauty of Xiamen is in the historical relics throughout the city, the excellent record of environmental protection, the friendly people, and the delicious street food.

Rules of Thumb

Where to stay: Visitors can find charming "home hotels," houses refurbished to accommodate overnight guests, in an old fishing village called Zengcuoan. From there it takes less than five minutes to walk to Huangcuo beach resort. It is not so pleasant to stay in hotels on Gulangyu Island. The location is more expensive, rooms are harder to book during the hectic season, and there are limited things to see and do on the island.

Zengcuoan is a unique village, where multiple religions and various cultures have harmoniously mixed for years. It was a vital military fortress during wartime following the end of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The Kuomintang even built its marine base and airport there, making for some interesting historical sites. 

Transportation: Xiamen is a relatively prosperous small city. It is quite easy to take the bus to get around. From the airport, you can take the No.91 to Ruijingxincun and then change to bus No.47 to get to Zengcuoan. It costs around 55 yuan ($8.75) to take a taxi. From the train station, you can take bus No. 857 to get to Zengcuoan. A taxi costs around 20 yuan.

What to do: Zengcuoan is not far from Xiamen University and South Putuo Temple. You can take the No.47, 29, 857, 92, or 112 bus to Xiamen University and walk to these scenic spots. Xiamen Overseas Chinese Museum, which is at the foot of Fengchao Hill, is in same neighborhood. On your way, you will pass by a nice area, Dingaozai, which has cafés, shops, boutiques and galleries. It is a good place for window-shopping. Most of the products are imported from Japan, South Korea and Hong Kong, and sell for good prices.

The seafood night market is a famous spot in Xiamen. The village of Zengcuoan is also worth exploring as it attracts a lot of artists, writers, and musicians. It has fresh air, delicious seafood and beautiful views near the sea. Meanwhile, more cafés, shops, boutiques and bars have opened. A few independent cultural events are also held in the village, gradually turning it into a vibrant cultural center.