Culinary students shine at Macao's tourism school

Macao's steady stream of inbound tourists makes booking mandatory to secure a table in practically every decent restaurant.

Despite the somewhat out-of-the-way locale and even after many years of operation, IFT Educational Restaurant is still one of the hottest places in town. That made me all the more determined to try it.

I finally got a chance on a recent business trip and had a friend, jewelry designer Dora Tam, join me. Macao is notorious for being a place where it's difficult to flag taxis during rush hour, so I decided to bite the bullet and walked to the restaurant from where I thought was a nearby bus stop. That turned out to be a 20-minute hike followed by a steady climb up to the summit of Mong-Ha Hill. Needless to say, I worked up sufficient appetite to warrant the long anticipated meal at IFT.

Dora had mentioned that the restaurant was recently renovated. The new look is contemporary with a lounge area near reception, a bar to one side and generously spaced tables, but a bit '80s looking. Nevermind: We were there for the food.

After being seated, the young server attending our table presented one of the most enticing bread baskets I had ever encountered. Bread is something that Macanese do splendidly, and the bread basket is usually up to snuff even in some of its dodgiest restaurants.

Ours featured four different types: a crunchy wafer with sesame and caraway seeds, a mini French baguette, a pumpernickel roll with sunflower seeds and thick slices of rosemary-flavored country loaf. All were deliciously different.

When I asked for the wine list, our waitress came back with her instructor, who explained to her how to present a wine list and beckoned to the nearby sommelier for any help if required. "All first-year students work for seven weeks on site as part of the training program here," she explains.

Although our waitress was cautious and made the occasional mistake, she was very attentive and keen to ensure that we had a good time. She got top marks for attitude, which can be surly even in some of the city's Michelin-starred establishments.

Scanning the wine list, I couldn't believe what a bargain it was. It featured all-Portuguese vintages, with three reds and three whites by the glass priced at MOP50 ($6.25) each. I decided to try a Casa Cadaval Vinha Padre Pedro 2009 from Ribatejo while Dora had a glass of Carmim Monsaraz 2009 from Alentejo.

The menu was extensive and featured the best of the best in Portuguese, Macanese and Chinese food. There was literally something for everyone, and it was too bad we couldn't indulge in more than what our tummies could accommodate.

We decided to share a starter of bacalhau fish cakes with Greek salad. Like the dishes to follow, the presentation was excellent: homey and rustic, but also borderlining on fine dining in its professionalism. I thought that it was a good way to show off a very traditional Macanese dish that can usually look a bit sloppy in other restaurants.

The deep-fried fish cake was thick, generous and beautifully seasoned. Laid onto a variety of tomatoes and feta cheese with a teeny moat of olive oil surrounding it, the medley of fresh vegetables combined with the salty fish whet our appetites for more.

I chose African chicken as my main. IFT served half a spring chicken with couscous and roasted courgettes, in a nod to the continent's spices permeating the chicken.

I loved everything about the dish: its moist and succulent meat wrapped in a crispy skin then smothered in an intense, slightly sweet and spicy sauce with hints of butter, chili, cumin, coriander and coconut.

Dora let me try her three-cheese ravioli with sweet pumpkin and pine nuts, and I was immediately addicted to its rich and creamy sauce.

Although we really wanted to continue with dessert, I had to catch my ferry by this time and sadly asked for the bill. On the bright side, coming back for the dessert menu is a good enough reason to bring a group of friends with more time to indulge.

IF YOU GO

IFT Educational Restaurant

Colina de Mong-Ha, Macao, 853-8598-3077.

Cost per person: MOP250 ($32.50)

Recommended: Bacalhau Fish Cakes with Greek Salad, Three-Cheese Ravioli with Sweet Pumpkin and Pine Nuts, African Chicken with Couscous and Roasted Courgettes.