Meat at Morton's shines on lighter summer menu (2)

The closed cooking system seals in the juices and flavor - and also the blood, which may be off-putting for Chinese diners who are used to grills that cook meat a little more. "We can adapt for the taste of any diner, if they ask," says Brusa.

Morton's is about the flavor of its choice-cut meats, so the steaks are unseasoned except for a bit of salt. Sides are a la carte and sized for sharing, including jumbo asparagus, bacon-and-onion mac and cheese, and sour-cream or horseradish mashed potatoes. New on the summer bill of fare: Parmesan and truffle matchstick fries and a savory spinach salad - new to the chain's Asia menus but quite familiar to fans of the steakhouse in the US.

The bar at Morton's is so famous for its "Mortini" that it almost feels sacrilegious to choose another pre-dinner cocktail. But there were no martini drinkers at our table, so we went straight for the wine list, opting for an Argentine malbec, a rich and - dare we say "meaty" - wine that was in perfect harmony with our big, juicy steaks.

Dessert options include a popular ice-cream sundae that's massive enough for the table to share. We also opted for a Grand Marnier souffle, a gloriously light puff, not too sweet, that Morton's is justly famous for. Next time we'll try a just-added summer special: apple crisp with a scoop of ice cream.

IF YOU GO

Morton's of Chicago

2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Street, Dongcheng district, Beijing.

010-6523-7777.

Details for other China locations at Mortons.com.

Average cost per head: 800 yuan ($125) (not including service charge and alcohol).

Recommended: Short-Rib Steak Tacos, Prosciutto-Wrapped Mozzarella, Bone-in Veal Chop, New York Strip, Center-Cut Filet Mignon, Grand Marnier Souffle.