Wonders of Wuyuan(2)

Likeng village Photo: Lu Qianwen/GT

Hui-style architecture in Sixiyan

It's not just in Shicheng either: The lack of tasty local food is recurring problem in many of Wuyuan's scenic spots. Though the place does not have any shortage of local specialties like tea, chrysanthemum and camphor wood to buy as souvenirs or gifts, satisfying one's stomach seems to be a bit of a challenge, especially for tourists coming from the north of the country.

On a more positive note, the scenery in Wuyuan is captivating enough that all but the most finicky of tourists will forget about their hunger as soon as they gaze upon the stunning panorama around them.

For those who are going to Wuyuan to see the maple leaves in Shicheng or the terraced canola flowers in Jiangling, picking the right season is crucial (autumn for the maple leaves and spring for the canola flowers). For other popular tourist spots in Wuyuan, this is not so important, although one might be wise to consider going in winter or summer to avoid the inevitable crush of tourists during the two transitional seasons.

For resorts such as Sixiyan village, traveling in the off-season is not a bad choice. Located in the north of Wuyuan, the village is home to many ancient Hui-styled buildings dating back to the Ming (1368-1644)and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. During the low season, aided by the informative explanations delivered by tour guides, one has more time to take in the details of wood and stone carvings which adorn the facades of the buildings, and which are typical features of Hui-styled architecture.

Historically under the administrative jurisdiction of Anhui Province, Wuyuan maintains several Hui-styled buildings left by famous Hui merchants (hui shang). Emerging from the Song Dynasty (960-1279) and enjoying its golden era during the late Ming and early Qing periods, these Hui merchants left a great deal of architecture that is of cultural and historical significance.

Condensing the essence of the culture of the time, Hui-styled architecture embodies the thinking and philosophy of the times. Sitting north and facing south, they emphasize not only utility in design, but also a meticulous sense of aesthetics. The exquisite engravings on those buildings have a wide range of features, and are also widely acclaimed and studied by both domestic and foreign architectural experts.

Most of the old buildings in Sixiyan village are well protected, and some of them still have residents living in them. They are a testament of the country's profound history: The disparity in the construction and furnishings between some of the buildings underline the economic disparities that existed between different families in feudal times, and the partially damaged engravings on the roofs or pillars are a vestige of the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), in which superstition and tradition were mercilessly stamped out as regrettable relics preventing the march of progress.

Time to time, one also spots new buildings that copy the exteriors and colors of the ancient architecture. The reasons behind this are complicated, and include the local residents' desire to improve their living conditions while remaining unwilling to compromise with the government. The buildings represent a balance between the interests of the locals, and the desire of the government to continue maintaining the area as a tourist attraction.

Other instances of exceptions to the aesthetic harmony of the area can be found in Likeng village, a popular tourist spot with a high concentration of ancient architecture. Many of these old buildings are connected by bridges over canals, creating an even more beautiful tableau that is scarcely seen in other parts of the country today. But while traveling around the village, tourists might feel perturbed by the amount of newly transported building materials blocking their way.